David Donovan’s number was called next. Donovan was around six feet tall and slim. He carried himself with a quiet confidence, and was a respectable regular in the N Street lineup. He wasn’t antisocial per se, but at the same time it was not uncommon to see him sitting off on a little side peak…

Trevor and Chase jogged down to the edge of the water, clean white boards under right arms, fins back and facing in. They stretched and did a few twisting warmups, then launched into the relentless, pounding shorebreak, eventually fighting their way through to the long, roiling middle section, where you could sort of catch your…