This place has an official name — not as a surf break, but as a landmark on local maps. I call it “Smushy’s” for obscure personal reasons. Years ago, I happened to see it breaking pretty much by accident. So I thought I’d paddle out and just poke around. And it was actually pretty good: long, peeling lefts, and short, flattened-out rights. After that, I surfed it by myself a couple of times, and went out with a couple of friends once. Other than that, I never saw anyone even checking the waves here, much less surfing, despite the fact that it’s located very close to an extremely popular break. Maybe people do surf here; I don’t check the spot ever anymore. But as far as I can tell, there are no images or videos on the internet of anyone riding the wave at Smushy’s.
Based on the photo, you might think this was an epic left reef/point. When I was actively checking it, the sand, swell direction, and tides had to all be just right, which almost never happens. On the other hand, since I never check it anymore, it may be super consistent and rideable for all I know, or maybe it hasn’t broken since the year 2000. I really have no idea.
Perhaps there’s a small underground cadre of surfers who check it obsessively, and sneak out to ride this wave when it’s happening. It’s certainly possible: the level of surfing ability and the sheer number of surfers in this area have both risen dramatically in recent years. But somehow I doubt it. It’s not marked on any surf guide maps, and the nearby “regular” break is reliable, catches a lot of swell, and quite well-known.
Memory is a cagey, unreliable narrator. But here’s what I remember: (a) low tide is better, both because the exposed sandy beach makes entry and exit a bit easier, and because it reduces backwash from the cliffs; (b) you don’t want to be out there during a huge tide swing, as tons of moving water will create strong currents, eddies, and boils; (c) you usually want to paddle out right alongside the giant rock, then angle over to the break once you’re far enough out; (d) after a ride, if you start getting pushed into the cliff, then paddle sideways back towards the large rock as hard as you can. Trying to go the long way around is risky. The one time a big set had me pinned within yards of the rocky cliff was one of the sketchier episodes of my surfing life.
When my kids were little, we used to hike around this area; this photo is from one of those days. As I shot the picture, I remember thinking: “it’s fine that I’m not out there surfing right now, I’m sure there’ll be plenty of other days like this.” I never saw it like this again.