Category: Nonfiction

December 1994 was the best month of surf I’ve ever seen at Ocean Beach. It was double-triple overhead+ for three weeks straight with consistent, moderate offshores and well-groomed sandbars. Mavericks was breaking for much of that month too. The last week of that three-week stretch was particularly notable: Monday was “Jay Day” at Mavs, with…

Reading Lately Michel Houellebecq, Ted Chiang – Exhalation, Ursula K. LeGuin, Annie Jacobsen – Nuclear War, David Mitchell, Charles Yu, Jeff Vandermeer, Margaret Atwood, John Mearsheimer, Whitney Webb, Martin Gurri, Catch-22 Substacks: Lee Fang, Matt Stoller, Sam Kriss, Grayzone, Ken Klippenstein, Aaron Mate, NS Lyons, Niccolo Soldo Classics Cormac McCarthy, Philip K. Dick, Dorothy Parker,…

This web site is a massive cope. It’s a “screw you” letter to the thing I most liked doing in my life — surfing — which now represents an oppressive chore, a pool of guilt, anxiety, and regret. Why? First, because I’m well out of my prime, and racked with injuries. It kind of sucks…