I paddled out at this place four or five times over the course of a thirty-year span, and never really got a decent wave. It gets very big, and never closes out; but it’s a low-quality wave, with giant holes in the reef, massive rocks in the lineup, and strong currents due to its position at the edge of a massive bay subject to huge tidal swings. All of these factors combine to create closeout sections, flat spots, and weird eddies everywhere. It’s also a major pain in the ass to get to, and features a long, spooky paddle through ominously still water. I’ve never seen anyone else surf it, other than a couple of friends that I dragged along with me one time.
